🔗 Share this article

Although recent appointments at Chanel and Dior sparked plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the debut from the iconic brand that truly captivated the media spotlight. The presentation featured a surprise appearance: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, making her return to the European scene in a trio of years.

During the Saturday evening in the French capital, the razzle-dazzle of other major houses – along with the notable attendee – were all outshone with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga presentation.

The Duchess delivered significant star power to the fashion event.

Until that moment, the general mood surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been quite calm. This esteemed brand is a time-honored label, and the designer is universally praised as a top-tier talent. Furthermore, he is cherished for his reputation as the kindest personality in the business. It was widely believed that provocative runway antics had left the Balenciaga building with the exit of Demna, known for his bold style to a competing brand. But, even the nicest guys spring a few shocks, and the presence of a duchess dramatically heightened the overall excitement.

He considers himself an design visionary, crafting silhouettes that never touch the wearer's physique.

Intriguingly, the main idea of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he detailed it backstage, was women's liberation. His initial inspiration was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a shape that maintains distance from the body, neither amplifying nor restricting a female form. The designer explained that this style was a radical expression of a evolving cultural mood that was beginning to move from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the liberation of the 1960s. The idea centered on female empowerment. It liberated women from the burden of garments that rest heavily on the physique and define them by their shape. That garment gave women the chance to be free in space.”

Some of the house's famous designs were featured in the show, such as this enveloping coat.

Clothes that hold their form are central to the identity of Balenciaga. He likened this creative process to being an master builder: creating structures that avoid direct interaction with the body, while constantly considering the individuals who will occupy these creations. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was obsessed with the body and with materials, and with a key factor – the space in between.”

First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the iconic dress, elongated to an ankle-skimming hem, accompanied by opera gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that functioned as a clear homage to the apocalypse-chic of Balenciaga’s Demna era.

The designer, who at fifty-eight sports strings of beads and charms and exudes an calm, bohemian vibe, is not interested in seeing the industry as a competitive fight. He states that it is more admirable for designers to appreciate each other’s abilities. He mentioned that he was aiming for a harmonious balance between the haute couture heritage of the brand, and its more recent streetwear era. The brand's legendary shapes were prominently featured in the show: a ‘cocoon’ coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a flared dress in a intense purple color.

The phenomenon of French-girl chic has become a lucrative industry. Michael Rider is an designer from the US, but he masters this style code. He collaborated closely with the renowned designer during her tenure at the house, and then worked for several years building Polo Ralph Lauren into a flagship for accessible taste. Currently leading Céline, he is introducing the inclusive spirit of Polo to Parisian style. So there were timeless coats, straw baskets, and luxury fabrics tied around bags – the signature details of the local style – presented in cheerful tones, with an upbeat American tone. The brand is welcoming, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented post-presentation. My desire is that everyone feels desirable in the brand. In this clothing, you may not have the strangest thing, but you have the best coat, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”